me again, making that same fleur de lis as all the other times. Weird.
updated 12/27/23 when restored to ice sculpting secrets
quick tips
This is the fourth archive from the original ice carving secrets quick tips feature. Each time ten tips (in this case, eleven) have been added to the section, they’ll be archived to make room for more. Here are links to quick tips archive #1, quick tips archive #2, and quick tips archive #3 (not sure if #3 is active yet…)
GFCIs
Water and electricity don’t go well together. Ground Fault Circuit Interruptors (GFCIs) quickly shut down a circuit when there’s a short. Unfortunately, GFCIs are sometimes a little delicate and will sometimes inexplicably stop working. If you have a tool or tray where a GFCI is integrated into the power cord, you might want to have a backup plan. In case of failure, the GFCI can be cut off and a regular replacement plug attached. To maintain safety, a replacement GFCI can be used between the plug and the outlet. (1/25/08)
chainsaw sharpening
Chainsaw chains can be quickly sharpened with an electric sharpener. One of the best is from EZE-LAP (note: not a secure link). The bits have a diamond coating that makes for very effective sharpening. (1/25/08)
keeping things straight
Lots of times, sculptures have elements that need to be as straight or as level as possible. Clinebell blocks can be a bit help because they’re usually uniform dimensions with square angles (kinda). However, blocks don’t melt straight and if a block has been out a while it will slowly lose its flat edges. Surfaces will start to curve slightly as the edges of a block melt faster than the middle. When the ice is no longer straight it has to straightened by recutting or replaning it. (1/25/08)
curves on the edge
Generally, carvings are cut to the right to the edges of the block to maximize the size of the sculpture. Sometimes, if a sculpture has curved surfaces that go to the edge of the block, it’s better to sacrifice a little bit of sculpture size and back the curved edge up a little bit. Curves that run to the edge often pick up the flatness of the block’s edge and it can be deceptively difficult to get rid of. (1/25/08)
luge tubing
When you’re planning the exit point for a tube luge, you usually want it to be accessible for the guests so that they can hold their glass there to catch the drink. However, you’ll likely want to avoid pointing it towards guests. You don’t usually want liquid shooting out of a tube luge and even if it just trickles out, guests that aren’t ready could easily ruin their nice party attire. In general, it’s better for the exit point to be on the lower right side (as a guest faces the sculpture) so that they can catch the drink with a glass held in their right hand. (1/22/08)
moving sculptures (more)
When you’re moving more than one sculpture at a time, the most common way that sculptures get broken is by hitting one another. Put padding between sculptures and make sure they’re stable. Also, when removing a sculpture from a cart that’s holding more than one, make sure that you don’t suddenly unbalance the cart. Flatbeds are particularly prone to tipping. (1/22/08)
moving sculptures (more)
Despite the last tip (below), you don’t always want to move a sculpture on a table-height cart. If it must be pushed or pulled over difficult surfaces or long distances, it’s better to have the sculpture as low as possible, such as on a flatbed cart or a handtruck. Larger, softer (but not too soft) wheels can make things easier as well by absorbing some of the bumps. The lower center of gravity will make it easier to handle and avoid accidents where the sculpture might tip over because the arrangement is very top-heavy.
When you’re moving sculptures, you have to make decisions as to the smartest way to move them to their destination. The range of possible challenges can make this process one of the most difficult and least enjoyable parts of carving ice. Ideally, but unfortunately rarely, the sculpture would be completely carved at its final destination. (1/22/08)
moving sculptures
It’s always easier to set up the sculpture if it arrives at the set-up spot already at about the same height as the table. When you have to lift a sculpture from the floor or set one down on the floor, you create opportunities to break it. When you’re done with a sculpture and storing it in freezer, you might want to put it on a table-height cart. Rubbermaid carts work very well for this and are very durable.
The more times a sculpture goes up and down, the more chances it has to be broken. In addition, if you break a sculpture during set up, you don’t have much time to fix or recarve it. So you want to eliminate as much risk from the set up process as you can. (1/17/08)
photography tips
Photographing ice sculptures can be challenging work, especially in subfreezing conditions. Lightweight gloves that allow you to push the right buttons while keeping your fingers warm will help you take steadier photos for a longer period. Taking advantage of a tripod, timer, and/or a camera’s image stabilization feature can allow you to take flashless photos that are more likely to capture what you actually see in front of you. One final suggestion, especially if you do use a flash: try to hold your breath during the shot. The flash will reflect off your frozen breath and can create an interesting, but usually undesirable foggy effect. (1/9/08)
photography tips
Cold conditions can be tough on your camera. Even if your camera is weatherproof or water resistant, if it gets very cold for any length of time, you should let it warm back up in a ziploc bag that doesn’t have much air in it. Otherwise, a very cold camera will suck in moisture from the air as it warms. Limiting its air exposure while it warms up can help protect the delicate electronics and mechanical parts inside. Also, while you’re shooting, the cold will dramatically cut your battery time, so make sure you have plenty of backup batteries. (1/9/08)
photography tips
For outdoor events, daylight is often the best lighting for ice sculptures, but try not to take photos when the sun is very bright. Overcast conditions or earlier or later in the day can offer ideal lighting. Some cameras have snow or beach settings that can help you avoid overexposing your ice photos. If you do overexpose your photos, sometimes computer software tools like Adobe Photoshop’s Camera Raw can help you salvage a special shot. Blown highlights are a common problem with ice photos and sometimes software can minimize or eliminate these, depending on how bad they are. (1/9/08)
links and stuff
If you missed it, there are other quick tip archives on the site, straight from the old ice carving secrets site: quick tips 1, quick tips 2, quick tips 3, quick tips 5, and quick tips 6.
You could also find photos and info from this entry on the ice sculpting secrets Instagram account or the facebook page. ice sculpting secrets is also on TikTok, although videos there aren’t really tied to posts as much. You can comment on IG and fb as well as below. And if it won’t LET you comment below, then definitely comment on fb and/or IG. Thanks!
