basics of ice blocks for ice sculptures, part 1

Understanding the art of ice sculpture begins with understanding the medium, which is, of course, ice. In virtually all cases, ice for sculpting comes in the form of large (300 pounds or more) blocks. Most everyone is quite familiar with the basic qualities of ice, but there are a number of not-so-obvious characteristics that have a direct effect on the art of sculpting it. The purpose of this article is to look at the various qualities of ice and the block form that it comes in. There is a lot to talk about, however, so this will be covered in at least two parts.

If you’ve ever taken a basic chemistry or biology course, you might remember that ice and water are substances with some unusual qualities. For example, common sense would tell us that a solid, like ice, should be more dense than a liquid, like water. For most other chemical substances, this is true. However, this is not the case with ice.

When ice forms, the water molecules align themselves in a highly organized structure called a crystal lattice. Because this crystal lattice takes up more space than the random molecules in liquid water, ice is less dense and therefore floats on top of water. Another consequence of the formation of the lattice is that ice tends to purify itself and force out molecules that aren’t water. This is not to say that all ice is made up exclusively of clean, pure water. But, generally, other types of molecules just won’t fit into the lattice. 

Okay, so now that we’ve covered some chemistry, you might ask: “Why does this matter?” Well, most people who have carved ice have run into poor quality “can” type of ice blocks at one time or another. These are blocks that have a large white core or “feather” in the center. This feather is composed of air, salts, and other impurities (sometimes dirt and who knows what else!) that have collected in the center of the block because it’s the farthest point from the freezing solution that surrounds the large metal cans that the blocks are made in.

In order to get any clear ice at all, the water in the can is circulated, letting impurities go to the center while clear ice forms on the outside. Poor quality ice blocks will have a large feather, while higher quality blocks will have a smaller core (sometimes it’s very small.) Higher quality blocks can be achieved by replacing the water in the center and circulating it as long as possible before removing the copper tube that blows air into the can, circulating the water. Sometimes you’ll see blocks with a copper tube frozen into the block because the person in charge of making the ice didn’t take it out in time.

Usually, clear ice sculptures are regarded as better ice sculptures than cloudy ones (although I have come across people who are impressed by a white core, wondering “how they got that in there.”) Thus, if you want to carve the best sculpture that you can, you have to take some care to eliminate cloudiness in the ice.

If you’re using “can” type blocks, then your efforts should include taking care to choose the best blocks possible, designing your sculpture so that cloudy parts of the ice aren’t used, and in some cases, physically removing the cloudy ice and reassembling the clear ice (this is a more advanced technique.) If this sounds like too much work to you, then you can simply use Clinebell type ice blocks… More on these blocks in my next installment; Have an ice day!