basics of ice blocks for ice sculptures, part 2

My last installment covered some aspects of ice itself. In particular, I talked about “can” type ice blocks and explained that these blocks usually have a core or feather of impurities in their centers. At the end of the article, I mentioned Clinebell type ice blocks. This installment will briefly describe Clinebell ice blocks and the process by which they’re created. I’ll also talk about natural ice blocks.

Clinebell type ice blocks are generally regarded as the best artificially produced ice blocks available. When properly made, these blocks are crystal clear and measure a uniform 40 inches by 20 inches by 9.75 inches. Their regular shape is an important feature, especially when you’re assembling multiple block sculptures. Can-type ice blocks taper slightly towards the bottom and usually have a single groove running down the center of the block on either side. This tapering means that can blocks don’t stack evenly without adjustment.

The only irregularities typically found in Clinebell blocks are notches on either end of the block and thin cloudy stripes on one side. The notches are the result of removing the clips that are frozen into the blocks so that the blocks can be hoisted from the machine. The cloudy stripes (which only show up occasionally) are caused by quicker than normal freezing over the cooling lines in the Clinebell machine.

The Clinebell machine uses a clever process to create clear ice blocks. The blocks are produced in 40 inch by 20 inch tanks that are about 15 inches deep. Only the bottom of the tank is refrigerated, so the block forms upward from the bottom of the tank. Suspended from the top of the tank is a pump that circulates the water. This circulation keeps air and impurities from freezing into the block so that the block comes out clear.

When the block has frozen to a thickness greater than ten inches, any water at the top of the tank is sucked out and the block is hoisted from the tank using metal clips frozen into the ends. After the block is free from the tank and no longer dangling from the hoist, the clips are removed. The top surface of the block is often irregular and may have some impurities frozen into it, so it’s shaved to a flat surface. Then it’s stood up on one end and boxed in heavy duty cardboard so that it’s protected and can be handled easily.

Clinebell and can blocks are both artificially produced ice and are widely available. Natural ice for carving is much harder to come by. At the time that I write this article, I’m only aware of two sources for natural carving ice: Alaska and Sweden. Alaskan ice is harvested from quarries which are essentially frozen over ponds while Swedish ice is river ice. Alaskan ice is used in the Anchorage and Fairbanks ice carving competitions while Swedish ice is used in building the original Ice Hotel (a hotel near Kiruna, Sweden which is built anew each year from ice and snow.)

Typically, it’s very easy to tell a natural ice block from any other kind of ice. While Clinebell and can blocks usually weigh 300-400 pounds, natural ice usually comes in blocks that weigh over a ton and require heavy equipment to move. They’re perfect for creating monumental ice sculptures and help account for the worldwide reputation of the Ice Hotel and the Anchorage and Fairbanks ice competitions. (Since I originally wrote this article, however, machines for producing very large ice blocks have been produced.)

Understanding your medium is important in any kind of art or craft. Like any other medium, ice has its own quirks and characteristics. Short articles can’t begin to replace real world experience with ice, but they can help build understanding. Now that we know a little more about ice, we can start talking about what to do with it and how to do it. But that will have to wait until next time. Have an ice day!